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ROPS on ATVs, To Be or Not To Be???

We do a lot of ATV training in this business and we’re always keen to pursue and promote the safest means of transport when using an ATV. There’s been on average over the last few years around 15-22 people dying in Australia whilst using an ATV and it’s a statistic that frankly is way-too-high and as a nation we should be ashamed of. In response Australian legislators have reacted and have been pushing the notion of retro-fitment of rollover protection systems (ROPS) to bikes already in circulation and encouraging bike makers to fit them as new and original equipment at the point of sale. The bike industry have reacted to the recommendations by commissioning their own research which is pretty damning to the pro-ROPS community. There’s a 15 minute video on the ATVSafety.com.au website that shows the research and the conclusions they’ve drawn and if you have an interest in this you should watch it.

We’ve been worried since Safe Work Australia made it a hotter potato than it already was with their ringing endorsement of ROPs. Personally we think they’re going about it the wrong way.

The overwhelming majority of ATV deaths and injuries happen on farms. We know the reason why because we see it all the time… complacency. It’s not good enough to jump on a machine under-prepared or under-dressed. When you throw caution to the wind something will go wrong. Might not be today, but next week, next month… There’s a host of other reasons why and we’ve identified a few below.

With all other vehicles we use on roads and tracks we make enforceable mandatory recommendations on driver/rider safety, yet for some reason ATVs aren’t caught up in that net. It’s simply not good enough that Government propose a solution that gives them a quick-fix and makes the issue go away (until the next person dies), when a better way exists in changing the minset and practice of the rider. Here’s our take on what needs to change:

1. Make helmet usage compulsory – as the FCAI say in their campaign “Wear It or Park It”. And a further point. An open-face helmet isn’t safe. You should be wearing a full-face MX style lid of an Australian Standard approved construction, so we can put a lid on brain injury AND facial damage including soft tissue reconstruction and dental reconstruction.
2. Complete the picture with proper PPE – the helmet’s the biggie but it needs to be supplemented with gloves, long sleeves or jacket, long pants, leather boots as any exposed skin will be torn to shreds. We’d even go so far as to recommend back protectors if you’re really serious about protecting yourself.
3. No training – no ride! – rider training can make a massive difference. In other industries the practice of chucking a set of keys to a new driver and sending them on their way with no experience or understanding is long gone. Why is it OK to put a new rider with no prior knowledge on an ATV then? You might argue what could go wrong, it’s being used at slow speed and the risk is low? There’s plenty of risk and without being shown appropriate start-up procedures, loading and unloading, braking, steering, shifting body mass, ascending, descending and decommission, you’ll likely hurt yourself. Training fixes the majority of potential disasters in as little as a day’s worth of instruction. It’s cheap insurance.
4. Is your ATV trackworthy – riding a bike that’s crook is just dumb. Time after time we see bikes with tyre pressures set wholly wrong. This is the single most important component to get right in the stability stakes. Using a regular tyre pressure gauge will give you the wrong result. Only a LOW pressure gauge will allow you to accurately measure the low pressures that flotation ATV tyres demand, as little as 25Kpa (3.6psi) on average depending on machine and weight/payload. Whilst we’re on tyres what condition are they in? Bald tyres are scrap, so too are tyres that have deep cuts, or have been repeatedly plugged with temporary repairs, spend the money and keep rubber on the machine that has some grip and in serviceable condition. Crook chassis, suspension and brakes only add to the drama.
5. Underage riding is a no-no – clearly stamped on the guard of any ATV is a warning that only riders over 16 years of age are permitted and only then whilst wearing a helmet. If you’re in the habit of “dinking” a passenger you’ve failed too for it’s only possible on bikes that are “twins”, having a seat and wheelbase to accommodate it.
6. Riding whilst pissed is a no-no – any acohol intake will render some degree of impairment and you simply can’t afford anything getting in the way whilst you’re in control of an ATV. Same can also be said of being dehydrated on a hot day. Not keeping the water intake up will result in a similar impairment.
7. Riding too big a bike isn’t smart either – BIG is always BETTER! Not with an ATV. For the most part a mid-size ATV will do most jobs more than satisfactorily. An engine-size of 350-500cc will deliver on most occasions (modern EFI engines have tonnes of grunt) for the workplace, the only time a 600+cc machine might be required is for a towing application. Smaller machines weigh less too and are less likey to cause the early-onset of rider fatigue. EPS (electric power steering) models help in the fatigue stakes by a huge margin.
8. 2WD ATVs are a waste of space – a 2WD ATV might be an enticing proposition on paper, but in the field they’re dangerous! A 4WD bike comes with double the grip and some will offer enhanced 4WD capability in the form of axle diff-locks for greater mobility. A 4WD ATV will outhandle, outbrake, outclimb, outdescend a 2WD bike every time.
9. Pick your day – riding in the pouring rain or on a 40C day is asking for trouble. When the elements are against you go find something else to do!
10. Consider a side-by-side – a traditional ATV is a marvellous invention affording incredible mobility, but there’s limits to what it can do and carry. For trickier jobs with heavier payloads you should be using a side-by-side (guess what, that’ll come with ROPS and seatbelts because it’s designed to).

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Range Rover Diesel Hybrid Coming Soon!

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Torque Vectoring

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September Weekend Walkabout – What a Blast!

We had one of the best turn-outs for a WW we’ve had in ages thanks to the intrepid gang who joined us in the Bendleby Ranges near Orroroo. WW is our advanced recreational program that we run during the middle months of the year, the best time to be in the Flinders.

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With all the accommodation booked, The Springs shearers quarters, Gum Dale and Crotta Homesteads we were packed to the rafters, with just about every 4WD make represented and just about every level of experience too!

Day one involved some getting to know the track, with a great trail drive along the North-South Ridge with soaring tracks to the summits of local hills before plunging down to the valley floor below. Saturday night’s dinner was it’s usual success, a sumptuous BBQ, but the desserts were something else!

Sunday’s drive culminated in the technically tricky Billygoat Ridge with its rocky jump-ups designed to test the undebelly of any low-slung 4WD. But it’s amazing what you can do with some careful placement.

If you want to join us WW runs every other month May to November and is an amazing way to see the southern Flinders Ranges in the company of the best trainers in the country. Here’s the  link to the WW page, call us on (08) 8342 0202 or email [email protected] to book.

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Toyota Workmate 70 Series 2010

I reckon Toyota have got themselves into a bit of a bind with the 70 Series in the same way Land Rover did with the Defender. Because their audience doesn’t like change they’re stuck with a foot in the old camp and the other in the new.

The body, chassis and ergonomics on both vehicles are really pretty average (I can already hear readers crying foul with me comparing the Defender’s appalling interior with that of the Toyota… I concede that the 70 has had some evolution whereas the Defender barely any).

By retaining the same chassis design for around 20 years now, only changing the front springs to the current coil spring design, Toyota have been stuck with a narrow cab and a narrow track. In the cab-chassis and the wagon it’s really obvious and if you’re a big bloke there’s not a lot of elbowroom. The accommodation in the cab-chassis feels even worse because there’s so little cab length, so even sliding the seat right back still leaves you short of comfortable room to the steering wheel and pedals.

The troop carrier has a different feel, probably because of the higher pitch of the roof to accommodate the patrons perched on the bench seats in the back atop the wheelarches, but it’s still cramped.

Now I know it’s a work truck and they’re not supposed to be flash inside but the seats and their coverings are awful. Yes you can opt for the GXL models across the range and enjoy much better seating and trim, but the Workmate’s interior is not conducive to long distances and won’t help driver fatigue. I wholly support a vinyl floor, it’s easy to brush out, but vinyl seats are hot and sweaty and there’s not much padding. Most owners will do the default fix and cover them with canvas covers, but that doesn’t help the shapeless unsupportive design.

The dashboard was revised in the last 12 months and not before time. Because the V8 model originally came out without airbags it effectively ruled itself out of a lot of Government and mining business (that’s the reason why the Hilux became the biggest selling ute). This most recent offering has the revised dash with the round air vents (reminds me of XP Falcon tail lights) and driver’s and passenger airbags.

The instruments are bathed in a warm glow at night and hip, hip, hooray, that clumsy button atop the steering column that used to control the key/steering lock has been given the flick. One thing that has been retained, that’s good value, is the same air conditioning system. It’s always been very effective at cooling the cab quickly and remains so today. The heating/a/c controls are old school too, slides and cables, no digital electronic stuff… that’s good.

I don’t need electric windows so thankfully there are winders still, but I would have liked bigger (read wider) door mirrors. Another advance is the windscreen washer stalk. Pull the arm and the jets squirt and the wipers wipe at the same time. The old models had to be pulled and flicked to do the same job. Why???

So what’s it like to drive? Well it’s a part-time 4WD system and here it’s really showing its age. There’s manually locking hubs in the centre of the front wheels, offering a freewheeling and locked position. The transfer lever offers 2H (2WD), 4H (4WD High) and 4L (4WD Low). In 2H 100% of the drive goes to the back wheels only, the High and Low ranges split the drive equally 50/50%. In 4WD you need to be on a loose surface, high friction surfaces like bitumen, concrete and paving will wind up the transmission and if you’re not careful you’ll break it. Changing into Low range is sometimes troublesome, as you need to lift the transfer lever and pull back to pick up the position. The lockout spring is stiffly sprung and some users will struggle.

I think hubs are way past their use-by date, they create confusion and I’ve seen instances where they don’t work, either broken or assembled incorrectly at the factory. Unable to be successfully locked you won’t be able to get power to the front wheels. Here’s a trick though that’ll confirm whether they’re in or out. Always make the shift from 2H to 4H on the move (you can engage 4H in any gear at speeds up to and in excess of 80kph). If the transmission crunches the hubs aren’t locked (or are broken).

The main gear lever is a bit like the transfer lever. Until they’ve clocked up significant kilometres the action is very stiff and notchy. Whilst some blokes will warm to this, plenty of other users will find it overly rigid and annoying.

Whilst we’re talking gears, the spread used by Toyota needs a rethink. First is way too short and second runs out of puff pretty quickly too. The gulf between second and third though is enormous, whilst fourth and fifth follow in a logical sequence. You notice the third to second change being out of whack when slowing for a corner, use too much entry speed in third, change to second and pop the clutch, only to be rewarded with a chirp from the tyres as the back end locks up for a moment. This catches a lot of drivers out and it takes them a while to modify their driving style to suit.

Running the standard 7.50 Dunlops the steering is overly nervous. The combination of narrow track and skinny rubber has the Workmate doing a merry dance on most surfaces. When just about every 70 Series I get into has over-inflated tyres too, the steering wobbles are magnified even more (read the placard). A much better tyre fitment is Bridgestone’s 661 Desert Dueler. Marginally wider in a LT235/85R16 size the tyre steers the 70 a whole lot more accurately, will carry heavier loads with greater poise and without punctures. I’ve converted lots of Government and industry Land Cruiser 70 users to the 661 with fantastic results!

The split rims are a bit of an issue too. They’re too heavy and add a heap of unsprung mass to the suspension that contributes to axle tramp on corrugations. Changing them is a pain too when you’ve got a flat, they’re heavy to lift. A one-piece wheel is much lighter and a better bet.

Whilst we’re talking suspension (and Toyota is not alone here), the standard springs and shocks are average. Toyota have a bit of a juggle with the three vehicles in the range, the ute and troop carrier carry the bigger load and get the rigid rear springs, the wagon gets a median spring. One’s too soft, the others are too hard. ARB offers good alternatives and they’ll better carry the load.

So to the business end, a 4.5 litre V8 turbo-diesel sits up front. On the face of it, it should have plenty of mumbo, but the numbers don’t lie. Whilst there’s 151Kw of power, there’s only 430Nm of torque and torque is what you need in a 4WD. Commendably the maximum torque appears at 1200rpm and there’s plenty of flywheel mass for low speed lugging, but for a motor the size of the 70’s I’d want what the 200 Land Cruiser gets, 650Nm.

You really feel it in just about every driving situation. The gearing is too short and it runs out of steam especially when towing. It needs a six-speed gearbox to improve highway engine speed, but loads more torque. You can get 450Nm out of a 2.5 litre 4 cylinder diesel these days, so a motor nearly double the size should be putting out a lot more go.

Commendably this generation 70 retains the traditional effortless control in Low range that its predecessors have had. This vehicle has always had deep gearing and for serious off-road work you can putter around at a snail’s pace with complete confidence. Point it down a steep hill and it engine brakes superbly. Plenty of other makers could take a leaf out of Toyota’s book here.

The 70 series is still favoured by Government and industry for heavier loads and the only other serious alternative the Nissan Patrol looks like its going down the same path as the Land Cruiser 200, up-spec and wagon only which will be a shame because competition breeds better vehicles.

The earlier mentioned Defender isn’t an alternative for the masses; most people don’t understand Land Rovers, so the 70 series soldiers on under-developed. It’s an OK truck but in today’s safety driven world it needs an ABS brake option, more horsepower and a better interior.

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